What's your next purchase? v4

http://www.lvsteeltargets.com/

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Just bought 2 of these AR500 targets. One 18SC and one 19SC in 1/2" thickness. I also bought two of his drive in thew ground bases. He threw in two of his angle deflector poles/posts for free.
 
You can hunt with 308 just fine, the gun you use for LMF range target shooting though may not make a very good hunting rifle though, for me a target gun is shot a lot and not carried very much (heavy barrel, tripod, heavier stock, bigger scope all that) where a hunting rifle is generally carried a lot and shot a little. On a hunting trip I may sight the gun in then take a shot or 2 for the actual hunt and it gets Carried all over the place day after day so weight is an issue.

Nothing wrong with using a 308 to hunt, i just find 30-06 has more choices in bullet selection for hunting and still makes a nice long shot.

I also like 270 for elk and dear but my favorite antelope rifle is my weatherby vanguard in 257 weatherby.

Understood. I have very limited rifle experience, having just bought my first one last month. An AR in 223/5.56. I've read a crazy amount about all firearms this past 9 months though. I'm sure I will get more than one rifle in 308. I'm looking at AR10s, and the Remington 783 in 308. Leaning towards the Remington as of now, it being nearly $600 cheaper.
 
Ak owners check this out. Lantac dragon.

[YT]3RjrQNN5HTQ[/YT]

Edit or anyone with a AR10 or 300 blk
 
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Drive in the ground base with deflectors built in and mounting poles with deflector plate.
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Understood. I have very limited rifle experience, having just bought my first one last month. An AR in 223/5.56. I've read a crazy amount about all firearms this past 9 months though. I'm sure I will get more than one rifle in 308. I'm looking at AR10s, and the Remington 783 in 308. Leaning towards the Remington as of now, it being nearly $600 cheaper.

Remington's quality has been hit or miss the past few years, make sure you inspect whatever you buy from them.
 
Picked up 1000 rounds of Wolf WPA 7.62x39 at the gun show today for $195.
 


My deer slaying monstrosity is finally complete. Started with a Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle, 18" stainless barrel. To it I added:

- Andy's Leather Rhodesian sling
- Andy's Leather 5 round, .30 cal. butt cuff
- Ruger polymer 5 round magazine
- XS Sights full length scout rail
- Weaver 1" see through rings
- Nikon Prostaff 3-9x40 with BDC reticle
 


My deer slaying monstrosity is finally complete. Started with a Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle, 18" stainless barrel. To it I added:

- Andy's Leather Rhodesian sling
- Andy's Leather 5 round, .30 cal. butt cuff
- Ruger polymer 5 round magazine
- XS Sights full length scout rail
- Weaver 1" see through rings
- Nikon Prostaff 3-9x40 with BDC reticle


Nice, looks a bit heavy though. For hunting I really like simple rifles. For years I used a Remington 700 adl that didn't even have a magazine floor plate on it, just a solid stock.

The bullet holder things look cool but I never found them to be much use for hunting becaus I've never taken more than maybe 2 shots anyways so I never need 5 extra rounds.

My main hunting rifles now are a Winchester model 70 featherweight with a zeiss scope, a weatherby vanguard 2 with a vortex viper scope. Both of those are 30-06 and then I have a ruger 77 in 300mag.

I have several weatherby rifles in big ass calibers like 340wby, 300wby, 378wby....I think I even have a 240wby. There's too many great hunting calibers out there, he'll I've killed stuff with a 264 win mag.
 
Thanks. A lot of money and time was put into that. The only thing I didn't do was pin and weld the battle comp 1.5 to my 14.5 light Noveske barrel.

Mighty impressive. I'm really digging these new curvaciously sexy lowers. I wish I had seen these a bit sooner. Speaking of that...

I've decided to build a couple AR-15 lowers and at least one upper from scratch. As somewhat of a mechanical noob it can be overwhelming with all of the options and variables the AR platform presents. I was thinking of starting a thread here (documenting the process of part selecton and assembly) as a cheap solicitation for guidance. :icon_chee
 
I was originally attracted to the Scout because of 10 round mags; one of the few ways to legally have a greater than 5 shot capacity in a centrefire rifle in Canada. Because I didn't quite dig forward mounted, intermediate eye relief scopes and because I recently got into hunting, this became my hunting rifle; if I were to guess, it's probably sitting at 8 lbs, still very doable. If I were to do it all over again, I'd probably grab a Savage Lightweight Hunter in .308, it's a sub 6 lbs gun, naked.
 
It's easy. You just need a couple of the right tools and you can do it. I've built several uppers and lowers.

Mighty impressive. I'm really digging these new curvaciously sexy lowers. I wish I had seen these a bit sooner. Speaking of that...

I've decided to build a couple AR-15 lowers and at least one upper from scratch. As somewhat of a mechanical noob it can be overwhelming with all of the options and variables the AR platform presents. I was thinking of starting a thread here (documenting the process of part selecton and assembly) as a cheap solicitation for guidance. :icon_chee
 
Yeah I go as light as possible because we do a ton of hiking where we hunt, super mountainous areas and then you have to carry lots of heavy meat back, I don't like carrying anything more than I have to.
 
It's easy. You just need a couple of the right tools and you can do it. I've built several uppers and lowers.

Thanks. The lower doesn't concern me much. I've swapped out most everything but triggers. The upper is uncharted territory. I'm confident the results will be good, I just figured there's not much traffic around this section of the board so something to liven it up like that might be fun. I've got most of the parts for the lowers and I just ordered what I think should be the remainder. Upper is a ways off yet.
 
Thanks. The lower doesn't concern me much. I've swapped out most everything but triggers. The upper is uncharted territory. I'm confident the results will be good, I just figured there's not much traffic around this section of the board so something to liven it up like that might be fun. I've got most of the parts for the lowers and I just ordered what I think should be the remainder. Upper is a ways off yet.

Well my upper is one piece and the forward assist and dust cover came pre installed. So I just twisted the barrel on torqued the barrel nut down installed gas tube and put the bcg and charging handle in. Got the battle comp pinned and welded and shot it that weekend. What I did took basically no time at all. The lower took much much longer and was definitely more challenging.

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Parts list:

Noveske 14.5 lp light barrel
Battle comp 1.5 pinned and welded
Vltor vis 3 upper w/ forward assist
wmd NiB-x bcg
Rainier arms raptor charging handle - not pictured bcm gunfighter mod 4 pictured here
Seekins precision billet lower
JP lower parts kit minus trigger assembly
Geissele SSA-E 3.5lb trigger
kns wishbone pins
magpul/noveske ambi sts 60 degree saftey selector- not pictured here
Magpul ubr stock w/ enhanced buttpad
h buffer and carbine spring
ergo grip

Optics:
Noveske stamped troy back up iron sights
Aimpoint mirco t1 2 moa on a larue tactical qd absolute zero mount

You might be able to make out the raptor and 60 degree sts in my picture with the steel targets.
 
The lower took much much longer and was definitely more challenging.

magpul/noveske ambi sts 60 degree saftey selector- not pictured here

If the lower is the more challenging of the two then I feel pretty good about things. How do you like that safety selector? Reviews kept saying it was disappointing (cheap plastic). Also, what's the deal with that doo-hickey connecting the trigger pins? Is there a purpose other than looking fancy? That's an ambi bolt release?
 
The 320 is intriguing.

I honestly have no use for another plastic super 9 since I have a dozen glocks and a few sigs but the 320 does get great reviews. I guess for just 500 bucks or less I should probably try one out.
 
If the lower is the more challenging of the two then I feel pretty good about things. How do you like that safety selector? Reviews kept saying it was disappointing (cheap plastic). Also, what's the deal with that doo-hickey connecting the trigger pins? Is there a purpose other than looking fancy? That's an ambi bolt release?

It's fine but if I had to do it again I would likely go with the battle arms bad ass ambi selector. I think the sts had just came out and the bad ass didn't exist yet. Idk it works just fine, it is plastic but so are pmags... the actual safety is metal just the thumb selectors are polymer.

The KNS anti walk trigger pins make both trigger pins basically one solid piece. They won't rotate which causes wear of the trigger pin holes and the pins won't walk out on you. As in they wont slowly start to come out by themselves (this happened on my dpms AR10). Slight wear will produce extra trigger creep/slop as well. Once it has worn to the point were the pins walk out the trigger will fell like shit. It just keeps the whole trigger area tight and it will stay like that. Some people don't think it is needed but the wear happened on my AR10 so everything else I ever do will have those pins. They are only like $20-30.

Yes, ambi bolt release.
 
Well my upper is one piece and the forward assist and dust cover came pre installed. So I just twisted the barrel on torqued the barrel nut down installed gas tube and put the bcg and charging handle in. Got the battle comp pinned and welded and shot it that weekend. What I did took basically no time at all. The lower took much much longer and was definitely more challenging.
imag0458j.jpg

imag0450q.jpg

imag0439pc.jpg

imag0427p.jpg


Parts list:

Noveske 14.5 lp light barrel
Battle comp 1.5 pinned and welded
Vltor vis 3 upper w/ forward assist
wmd NiB-x bcg
Rainier arms raptor charging handle - not pictured bcm gunfighter mod 4 pictured here
Seekins precision billet lower
JP lower parts kit minus trigger assembly
Geissele SSA-E 3.5lb trigger
kns wishbone pins
magpul/noveske ambi sts 60 degree saftey selector- not pictured here
Magpul ubr stock w/ enhanced buttpad
h buffer and carbine spring
ergo grip

Optics:
Noveske stamped troy back up iron sights
Aimpoint mirco t1 2 moa on a larue tactical qd absolute zero mount
You might be able to make out the raptor and 60 degree sts in my picture with the steel targets.

Damn, that's a nice looking rifle.
 
It's fine but if I had to do it again I would likely go with the battle arms bad ass ambi selector. I think the sts had just came out and the bad ass didn't exist yet. Idk it works just fine, it is plastic but so are pmags... the actual safety is metal just the thumb selectors are polymer.

The KNS anti walk trigger pins make both trigger pins basically one solid piece. They won't rotate which causes wear of the trigger pin holes and the pins won't walk out on you. As in they wont slowly start to come out by themselves (this happened on my dpms AR10). Slight wear will produce extra trigger creep/slop as well. Once it has worn to the point were the pins walk out the trigger will fell like shit. It just keeps the whole trigger area tight and it will stay like that. Some people don't think it is needed but the wear happened on my AR10 so everything else I ever do will have those pins. They are only like $20-30.

Yes, ambi bolt release.

I picked up a couple of the Battle Arms safety selectors before I saw the one you have and of course it made me wonder if I'd made the right choice. I just need something that's ambi with shorter levers than what's standard. I hate the damn thing rubbing on my trigger finger.

I'm going to check out those pins. I like that look (not sure why) and if there's a sensible functional purpose then all the better. :)

I hadn't seen those ambi bolt releases before. I picked up a few different varieties of the Magpul BAD Lever to see what works/I like best. Now you got me rethinking that. Hmmmmmm.
 
I picked up a couple of the Battle Arms safety selectors before I saw the one you have and of course it made me wonder if I'd made the right choice. I just need something that's ambi with shorter levers than what's standard. I hate the damn thing rubbing on my trigger finger.

I'm going to check out those pins. I like that look (not sure why) and if there's a sensible functional purpose then all the better. :)

I hadn't seen those ambi bolt releases before. I picked up a few different varieties of the Magpul BAD Lever to see what works/I like best. Now you got me rethinking that. Hmmmmmm.

It is an ambi billet lower. The ambi bolt release is milled into the lower during the cnc process. If your lower isn't an ambi lower and you wanted to do that there is an option but you have to use a dremel, file, etc to cut into the lower.

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It is an ambi billet lower. The ambi bolt release is milled into the lower during the cnc process. If your lower isn't an ambi lower and you wanted to do that there is an option but you have to use a dremel, file, etc to cut into the lower.

Yeah, I won't be cutting into the receiver. Looks like I'll need to be getting another damn AR at some point. :(
 
2nd Amendment problems...:icon_chee

th





New issue. I came across this after salivating over the KNS pins. Jesus Christ Lord and supposed Savior can it get any more ambiguous (keeping in mind I just purchased Geissele triggers for my builds)?

http://forum.snipershide.com/sniper...203195-kns-anti-walk-pins-ar-15-triggers.html

Regalkismet:

I found this post which seems to hit the nail on the head.... Last couple sentences really sums it up:


KNS pins are not recommended on the Geissele triggers. The trigger pin doesn't matter, it's the hammer pin. The assembly uses a circlip INSIDE the hammer pin bore to retain the hammer pin instead of the conventional J spring, and the hammer spring leg retains the trigger pin (as original) in a groove in the pin.That said, you CAN use the 1st gen .155 KNS pins. Geissele has said that it will overstress the circlip and eventually wear out it's tension, thus your hammer will be married to the KNS pins for life.2nd gen pins change the hammer pin to a solid, with the little tabs to retain the outer bars. The 1st gen hammer pin is hollow, with oil holes, and uses a little screw in 'bullet' to aid in insertion. It will expand the circlip and allow installation. No such luck with the 2nd gen, as the sharp sholder will damage the circlip, and likely force it out.I used 1st gen pins in one of my SBR lowers, which I intend will stay in it's current configuration for my lifetime, so nothing lost for me. My other went into another SBR lower that I'm still messing with, thus the factory Geissele pins.KNS pins, contrary to inter-rumor-net, will not in any way ruin the operation of the trigger. *Geissele has noted in several emails that they will replace the circlip, for a fee, as long as the bore/retaining groove has not been damaged.So, it's up to you. 1st gen pins and possibly stressing the factory circlip, 2nd gen pins and probably damaging the circlip, or Geissele factory pins. In any case, use the larger diameter pins.
 
th





New issue. I came across this after salivating over the KNS pins. Jesus Christ Lord and supposed Savior can it get any more ambiguous (keeping in mind I just purchased Geissele triggers for my builds)?

http://forum.snipershide.com/sniper...203195-kns-anti-walk-pins-ar-15-triggers.html

You probably don't need it, geissele pins are good. Either way I don't plan on removing or selling my SSA-E trigger ever so it doesn't matter to me. I had experience with a pin walking so I bought them, seems a hide user had one as well. From the site you can see many use them/know friends that have them and none have issues even after thousands of rounds... A friend of mine has a rifle with like 8k rounds through it and he had the kns pins and ssa trigger from the beginning. Everything is still good. Fcg and trigger feel good.
 
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